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{"id":13265,"date":"2022-08-26T15:14:35","date_gmt":"2022-08-26T15:14:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/scienceandnerds.com\/2022\/08\/26\/juicy-marbles-filet-mignon-is-good-plant-based-meat-but-not-great-steak\/"},"modified":"2022-08-26T15:14:36","modified_gmt":"2022-08-26T15:14:36","slug":"juicy-marbles-filet-mignon-is-good-plant-based-meat-but-not-great-steak","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/scienceandnerds.com\/2022\/08\/26\/juicy-marbles-filet-mignon-is-good-plant-based-meat-but-not-great-steak\/","title":{"rendered":"Juicy Marbles\u2019 filet mignon is good plant-based meat but not great steak"},"content":{"rendered":"

Source: https:\/\/www.theverge.com\/2022\/8\/25\/23204606\/plant-based-steak-juicy-marbles-filet-mignon-vegetarian-perspective<\/a>
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It\u2019s hard to stand out in the world of plant-based meats, but Juicy Marbles is trying to do so by attempting to replicate not just a steak but also one of the higher-end cuts: the filet mignon. When the company reached out to The Verge<\/em> asking if we wanted to try its steaks, its promises of a tender filet that\u2019s marbled and cooks like a real steak caught my attention, as someone who swore off eating meat for two years (but who still gets a little jealous of the delicious-looking things my wife eats). The price also caught my attention \u2014 $40 for a four-pack of four-ounce steaks. For the mathematicians at home, that\u2019s $40 a pound.<\/p>\n

Having eaten plenty of plant-based meats, though, I know that marketing materials can be very<\/em> deceiving and that being expensive doesn\u2019t automatically equate to tasting good. Keeping my hopes in check, I asked them to send me and my co-worker Alex Cranz, a person so committed to beef I think Hank Hill might have been modeled after her, some steaks. The plan was to get both a vegetarian and carnivorous perspective. <\/p>\n

Soon enough, the steaks had arrived, swaddled in dry ice. While I was preparing to cook them, I noticed that the raw steak smelled very<\/em> similar to raw Beyond Burger. That concerned me a little. While I do thoroughly enjoy a good plant-based hamburger, they often have a weird, indescribable taste that starts to seep in if the patty is too thick. (For example, I enjoy the Burger King Impossible Burger but not Red Robin\u2019s, which is significantly heftier.) At the time, I didn\u2019t know that it wouldn\u2019t really end up tasting anything like a hamburger patty, so with some extra trepidation, I set about cooking it.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s been a second since I\u2019ve cooked a \u201creal\u201d steak, and my go-to method was always\u2026 a little unconventional<\/a>. For this test, I wanted to try the Juicy Marbles steak in its purest form, so I limited my seasoning to just salt and pepper and cooked it following Gordon Ramsay\u2019s guide for literal children<\/a>. Basically, I seared it on both sides, basted it in butter, and then rolled it in the pan to cook the edges. The filet definitely browned and crisped up, but I can\u2019t say that it looked shockingly steak-like; to be honest, it kind of reminded me of an extra thick (and a little burnt) McDonald\u2019s hash brown.<\/p>\n

I could tell that the texture of the Juicy Marbles filet wasn\u2019t going to be particularly convincing the second I cut into it, and my knife basically slid right through it. Looking at the inside, it was easy to see why. Juicy Marbles\u2019 fake meat fibers are way bigger than in an actual steak. In fact, they\u2019re almost identical to what you\u2019d find in a slow-cooked pot roast. <\/p>\n

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Does this look like the inside of a steak?<\/em><\/figcaption>Photo: Mitchell Clark \/ The Verge<\/cite><\/p>\n

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The taste doesn\u2019t do anything to dispel that impression either. To be clear, to my tongue, it very much tastes like beef. I genuinely might have been fooled that it was an actual chunk of roast if it were in a stew or already shredded on a plate. But it did not taste like steak. My wife, who does eat meat, had pretty much the exact same conclusion. (I didn\u2019t tell her what I had thought of it before she tasted it.) When I asked Alex how her experience had gone, she seemed even less impressed.<\/p>\n

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The filet\u2019s texture was disappointing pretty much across the board.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/span><\/p>\n<\/figure>\n

Someone I didn\u2019t exactly expect to agree with my conclusion was Vladimir Mi\u0107kovi\u0107, Juicy Marbles co-founder. But when I talked to him, he freely admitted that the company had some work to do. \u201cI think the texture is one thing that\u2019s the thing that gets a lot of positive feedback as well as that it\u2019s not exactly like steak,\u201d he said. \u201cThat\u2019s the biggest challenge, I think, because if you look at a medium rare steak, it\u2019s got two different textures. The middle stays very jello-like and chewy, while the outside kind of becomes similar to what we have and it gets these fibers that are pronounced. So it\u2019s not quite realistic there.\u201d<\/p>\n

As someone who\u2019s eaten maybe one or two cow-based filets mignons in my whole life, I\u2019m not really one to judge how accurate that description of a real steak is. However, it doesn\u2019t quite match up with how renowned food writer J. Kenji L\u00f3pez-Alt describes tenderloins (which are where filets mignons come from). In \u201cThe Food Lab\u2019s Definitive Guide to Grilled Steak<\/a>,\u201d he writes that they should have an \u201calmost buttery texture\u201d and that a well-cooked steak \u201cshould have a crusty, crunchy, well-browned exterior surrounding a core of perfectly pink, juicy, tender meat.\u201d To me, at least, I wouldn\u2019t describe Juicy Marbles\u2019 thick fibers as being particularly crust-like, nor would I say that a chewy interior is the same as a tender, buttery one.<\/p>\n

I\u2019ll also note that the Juicy Marbles steak also completely failed to live up to the texture and behavior of the real thing when I tried to make a Philly cheesesteak with it. Instead of slicing into thin strips, the filet mostly just crumbled into cubes. It didn\u2019t make for a great sandwich.<\/p>\n

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\nI\u2019m pretty sure I\u2019d meet the same fate as <\/em>Hitchbot<\/em><\/a> if I showed up to Philly with this \u2014 and not just because of the incorrect bread.<\/em>
\n<\/figcaption>Photo: Mitchell Clark \/ The Verge<\/cite><\/p>\n

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Mi\u0107kovi\u0107 says that the company has also gotten feedback about Juicy Marbles\u2019 flavor, with people saying that it doesn\u2019t taste exactly like steak. \u201cI think there were certain people who were kind of offended that we called it filet mignon,\u201d he laughed. \u201cWhich I do understand. Because to somebody if that means a lot to them, and they are really used to that thing being a specific experience\u2026 I kind of get it.\u201d<\/p>\n

To some extent, it seems like getting that kind of feedback was what Juicy Marbles wanted. It\u2019s been selling small batches of steaks on its website, seeing how people react, and setting up internal teams to work on solving the problems people have. Apparently, there\u2019s a team dedicated to making Juicy Marbles\u2019 steak juicier after they got complaints that the steaks turned out dry. \u201cYou can fuck it up,\u201d Mi\u0107kovi\u0107 said. \u201cIn the sense that is like meat, you can definitely make a dry-ass piece of Juicy Marbles as well.\u201d (Alex confirmed this to me by saying \u201clmao I did.\u201d)<\/p>\n

In fact, Mi\u0107kovi\u0107 told me, \u201cWhat you ate is kind of the old version. Already we have a new one to deploy, which is going to come later this year, which we\u2019re going to get a completely new flavor mix.\u201d <\/p>\n

This sort of iterative approach isn\u2019t uncommon in the fake meat industry. Both Impossible and Beyond introduced \u201c2.0\u201d versions of their hamburger patties, and Simulate has done something similar with its chicken nuggets<\/a>. The differences between versions have sometimes been dramatic \u2014 the first time I had a Beyond Burger I could barely finish half of it, but I think the company\u2019s current patties rival Impossible\u2019s. <\/p>\n

Having only tasted one iteration of Juicy Marbles, it’s hard to say how fast it\u2019s improving toward being like a real piece of beef. I would say, though, that there\u2019s a bigger gap between the filets and actual steak in terms of texture than there was for my first Beyond Burger, but Juicy Marbles is slightly closer on taste. <\/p>\n

Mi\u0107kovi\u0107 does seem to want to take a page from those companies in other ways as well. He told me that the company wants to start selling its products in restaurants and retail outlets in the next few months to avoid having to use \u201call that dry ice and fucking packaging\u201d that the steaks currently come in, which happen to be very expensive in addition to being relatively wasteful. <\/p>\n

But getting onto store shelves and the company\u2019s goal to drive the price of Juicy Marbles down to be \u201cridiculously low\u201d are both way easier said than done. The company will have to start operating at scale to make its steaks cheaper and to have enough of them to sell to stores and restaurants, and it\u2019ll be competing for space in the plant-based aisle with established competitors that have spent years on getting their supply chains going. (Personally, I wouldn\u2019t want to have to compete with Kellogg\u2019s, a massive player<\/a> in the space.) <\/p>\n

Even if Juicy Marbles does manage to get its steaks onto store shelves, people will actually have to like them and decide that the price tag is enough to keep buying them. Plus, how often do the companies that are early to market with a product end up on top? (Hint: McDonald\u2019s isn\u2019t partnering with VegeBurger or Boca to launch the McPlant<\/a>.) <\/p>\n

What I\u2019m saying is that making the steak more realistic is just one of the many things Juicy Marbles has to do to succeed. But whether it is the one to really crack the code, I\u2019m glad it, and other companies like Beyond Meat (which recently announced<\/a> that it\u2019s working on making steaks, too), are pushing to make plant-based steak a thing. While I\u2019m not the type of person who eats a lot of alternative meats, it\u2019d be great to have unground beef as an ingredient in a potato stew. I\u2019d genuinely be interested in the Juicy Marbles steak I tried for the latter if the price were a little lower. As an alternative to the occasional fancy steak dinner, though? I think the Juicy Marbles may need to marinate for a little longer. <\/p>\n

By the way, and apologies for the not-so-subtle plug: if you\u2019re interested in fake meats, check out The Verge<\/em>\u2019s show on Netflix<\/a>, The Future Of. <\/em>Episode 6 goes into what cheeseburgers could look like in the next few decades.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n


<\/br><\/code><\/p>\n

Source: https:\/\/www.theverge.com\/2022\/8\/25\/23204606\/plant-based-steak-juicy-marbles-filet-mignon-vegetarian-perspective<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Source: It\u2019s hard to stand out in the world of plant-based meats, but Juicy Marbles is trying to do so by attempting to replicate not just a steak but also one of the higher-end cuts: the filet mignon. 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